After picking up the rental car, we head to Valparaiso. The car experience takes up an inordinate amount of time and creates no end of hassles. Valparaiso is 120 km. northwest of Santiago. As the guide book says, it is a cultural capital and vital port.
Our hotel is on a cerro(hill) and takes us hours to find because we don't have a detailed map, there are lots of one-way streets and everyone keeps saying "derecho" (straight ahead) and that doesn't exist as we wind our way up 90 degree angle streets.
When we get there, it isn't what I saw on the web. Yes, there is a view of the bay, but the room doesn't even have enough space for our suitcases to be opened up.
New hotel is found in a few minutes, thanks to internet. It's an architectural feat, has a loft and great views of vineyards, laundry, multi-coloured funky houses clinging to hills. The owners are exceptionally friendly and the restaurant they recommend for dinner is amazing. I have a salmon steak encrusted in ingredients I can't name. It's a winner!
However, Valparaiso is difficult to manoeuvre by car and worse by foot. Especially for my compromised knees. I can't really walk up and down the hundreds of steps or do the cobblestoned streets which are not well-lit at night and populated by stray dogs at every turn. But it stays light until 9:30 p.m. since it is summer, so that is a big bonus.
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