Chile's national parks are really low-key. It was hard to find the Reserva Nacional Rio de los Cipreses. About 40 km. east of Rancagua, this little -visited park contains a variety of "volcanic landforms, hanging glacial valleys, waterfalls and fluvial landscapes. It has forests of fragrant cypress, olivillo, and other native trees. Among the animals living here are pumas, foxes, condors, and Chile's largest native parrots." You had to register with the forest rangers and then you went along a dirt road.

Our rented car had problems with stalling and did not have great shocks. Going over huge boulders, river beds and steep mountain paths was not good for it. We didn't see any animals except some cows which got in our way. Maybe we did see a condor, but didn't know it. Such rough "roads" and heat (it might have been in the mid-30's) without seeing another soul were not enticing enough for Michael and me. He need his bottle of Coke and I was running out of water.

So we went back to our boutique hotel and swam and read and drank and ate and looked at the Andes from there.